Friday, December 21, 2012

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!




Happy Holidays from Commonwealth Landcare Inc
Yes, it’s that time of year again. The days are shorter, the temperature is lower and none of us want to spend much time outside. But, there are a few things you should do before you hibernate for the winter.
Landscape Tips for December
  • Prune evergreens and holly
  • During heavy rains, watch for drainage problems in the yard. Tilling, ditching, and French drains are possible short-term solutions. Consider rain gardens and bioswales as a longer-term solution.
  • Turn off water faucets to prevent freezing
  • Protect new landscape plants from wind. Use stakes, wires and/or windbreaks as needed.

Monday, November 12, 2012

Leaf Removal Tips



Commonwealth Landcare Inc. is now offering leaf removal & vaccuum services to both residential & commercial clients. Contact us today for a free estimate. Below are some tips to clean up those leaves in the meantime.

Contact Information:
Michael Pugh
(804) 205 0379
cwlandcare@gmail.com 
cwlandcare.com   

Raking
o    Raking up the leaves from your lawn, driveway and yard is an old-fashioned, tried-and-true method of leaf removal. The only drawback is that it is also one of the hardest and most labor-intensive methods. Try using a special time-saving rake that has an extra-wide raking surface with extra thin and extending prongs. Make sure to keep your back healthy by moving your feet around, instead of bending and stretching your back to reach awkward places. Avoid twisting and wrenching your torso by holding the rake in front of you and walking backward with it.
Blowing
o    Leaf blowers can be expensive, which is an immediate drawback to their use. Additionally, some leaf blowers require gas to operate, which can cost money and hurt the environment. These drawbacks should not put a leaf blower off your list of options, however. Electric blowers can work just as well and don't require gas to operate. For dry leaves, a blower can work wonders and even be fun to use. When the dry leaves are out of the way, though, wet, sticky leaves may require more power and elbow grease. One way to take care of your leaves without working too hard is to get all the ones you can out of the way with an electric blower, and get the stubborn ones with a leaf rake. Since leaf blowers are often quite loud, be sure to use yours at a time of day that won't bother your neighbors.
Mulching
o    Before you do all that raking and blowing, ask yourself if you need to be removing the leaves yet. If it's early autumn and your lawn grass is still growing, you don't actually need to rake yet. Just run your mower over your grass to mulch; leave the leaves on the ground or bag them. If it's later in autumn and you aren't mowing the grass anymore, raking can commence. Mulching mowers can be expensive, so try to buy one during spring or winter, when they are less in demand.

Monday, October 29, 2012

Hurricane Sandy Cleanup

Commonwealth Landcare Inc. will be providing storm cleanup to both Commercial & Residential clients once the storm has passed.  Please contact us ASAP for a FREE estimate.

CONTACT INFORMATION:

(804) 205 0379
cwlandcare@gmail.com

Monday, October 15, 2012

Renovating Cool-Season Lawns

Much of Virginia dealt with moderate to severe drought for most of the summer and in many places the drought continues into the fall. Some cool-season lawns have been dormant for weeks now and until they receive ample rain, one won’t be able to distinguish dormant turf from dead. This weather pattern has convinced numerous homeowners from Richmond and to the east that perhaps warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, and St. Augustinegrass) really do have a place in a Virginia lawn. However, even with their superior tolerance to heat and drought, some of the warm-season grasses have shown signs of moisture stress and have entered dormancy themselves.  Still, the poorest quality warm-season lawns I have seen this year are far superior to any non-irrigated cool-season lawns that I have been asked to examine. Weeks of record heat and extended drought have taken their toll on much of our landscape, and the effects on all of our plant materials (lawns, trees, shrubs, and other ornamentals alike) will probably show the effects of this summer for months to come.

What should we be considering regarding the renovation of cool-season lawns when (if?!) the weather pattern finally breaks? Here are some ideas to consider as you plot your recovery plan.

How much renovation is required? If you have just a few spots around the lawn, concentrate solely on them, using a heavy garden rake to loosen the dead plant debris and disturb the soil surface prior to seeding. While you won’t likely be calibrating a spreader for such a small area to seed, don’t bury the soil in seed. Too heavy of a planting rate exaggerates disease pressure for the new seedlings. Apply fertilizer according to a standard fall fertility program (we usually recommend the “SON program”… up to 1 lb N/1000 sq ft per month of Sept., Oct., and Nov…. we’ll say a little more about this later) and keep any new seeding moist but not saturated. Don’t forget that sod in these problem areas is also a good option! If significant lawn renovation seems to be a problem for you just about every year (or you are just ready for a change in cool-season lawn grass), then perhaps the low quality lawn you have now justifies this as an opportunity to switch to a better adapted grass or variety for your situation. Most likely the loss of turf this year has been due to the heat and drought, but it would be a good idea to check your soil by testing if you have not done so in the past three years. In my mind, if you consistently lose more than 50% of your lawn due to summer stress, then there must be an issue in your grass selection. For those of you in the southern Piedmont and Tidewater regions, it might be time to walk away from the cool-season grass and plant a warm-season turf next spring (or sod it now—that will still work). Consider starting over again by applying a non-selective herbicide (something like glyphosate or glufosinate) to control all the vegetation in the lawn and plan on seeding or sodding the entire area. It will be beneficial to perform some type of soil surface disruption (perhaps a vertical mowing or a core aeration event) to improve soil to seed contact, but complete tillage is usually not necessary for seeding if you are satisfied with the slope of your lawn. For sod installations, a light tillage to remove the organic layer on the surface is desirable. Also consider that moderate to extensive renovation affords you the opportunity to make improvements in any surface or sub-surface drainage issues, and it is a great time to install an in-ground irrigation system or wiring for more outdoor lighting. You can find plenty of details on preparation and establishment practices in the attached VCE publication “Fall Lawn Care”.

We mentioned core aeration as part of a renovation program. This is a great tool to improve turf establishment, but remember that the soil must be reasonably moist to aerate, otherwise your coring machine will simply bounce around the surface and probably break a large percentage of the coring tines. Is there an easy way to know when a soil needs aeration? Give it the “screwdriver” test—if you can push the business end of a flat-head or Phillips-head screwdriver 3 inches into a moist soil without undue force (no jabbing, hammering etc.), then coring is likely not required. If my soil passes the screwdriver test, can it still benefit from a core aeration event? Sure. Coring stimulates soil microbial populations, organic matter decomposition, and the oxygen further enhances the health and function of your turf root system. It also is a great soil preparation technique for moving lime, fertilizer, seed, or compost applications into the soil.

What about fall fertility ideas for a renovation situation?  There is no point in applying fertilizer to a dormant lawn. It presents a possible environmental hazard and is a waste of money. So if you still haven’t received significant rain to promote turf recovery, don’t apply fertilizer just because of what the calendar says. The “SON” timing program very likely won’t work for cool-season turfgrasses this year. We might need to push our first fall application back 2-4 weeks from normal until we get some active turf growth. But when your turf does show some signs of life following fall rains, help it out by feeding it this fall. Your lawn will benefit not only now, but next spring as well.

What about weed control? For many of us, about the only thing that has done well in our cool-season lawns this summer has been crabgrass. There is still an opportunity to control crabgrass with the herbicide quinclorac (trade name, Drive), a product that can be used by homeowners that has very little impact on any fall seedings you might want to make (it is a specialty product that you likely won’t find at a big-box retailer). However, is its application justified? For most of us, I am going to say “no”. Remember, crabgrass is going to die with the first killing frost. I’d rather core cultivate and apply more desirable grass seed to fill in the voids that will be left behind by the dying crabgrass. Are you still going to have some weeds? Most definitely -- remember that weeds beget weeds! What I mean is that as one weed dies, it usually creates the space for another one to move in. This cycle occurs every year with the fall decline of crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, etc. only to be replaced in your lawn by annual bluegrass (Poa annua), chickweed, henbit, etc. Then it starts all over again next spring with the death of the winter annuals followed by the emergence of all the summer annuals. The best way to manage weeds in your lawn is through the establishment and maintenance of a dense turf that is achieved by proper seeding, fertility, mowing, etc. You can help break the cycle with chemistry by choosing the appropriate herbicides. As just mentioned, your choices in herbicides for fall applications can be severely restricted if you are going to seed. If you have a reasonably thick turf canopy that you can restore primarily through sound fertility, irrigation, and mowing programs, then you might want to use a standard PRE herbicide (same as for spring crabgrass treatments) for winter annual weed control. Or you might choose to wait and see just how many winter weeds emerge in your lawn and plan on treating them in a few weeks when they are still very young and actively growing. Again, just be sure that if you are doing any fall seeding that the chemistry you choose to use is safe for new seedlings. Complete information on what is available in pest control products in the lawn and landscape can be found in the Virginia Tech Pest Management Guide (just type in PMG on the Virginia Tech home page, www.vt.edu).

I hope this podcast has provided you the information required to restore your lawn to a level that enhances the appearance and functionality of your landscape. For further information on lawn care in your area, be sure to contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office.

Sunday, September 16, 2012

Fall Aeration & Overseeding



FALL AERATION AND OVERSEEDING
Of all the things that build a healthy, thick lawn, core aeration is second only to lawn fertilizing. Core aeration (also known as cultivation) reduces thatch in your lawn while it opens the way for air, water and fertilizer to reach the root zone of the turf. Lawn aeration is the secret to getting the most out of your other lawn care services.
Keeping Thatch Under Control
Thatch is the layer of dead and living stems, blades and roots that builds up on any well-maintained lawn. A small amount of thatch is a good thing, but when it gets over about a 1/2'' it becomes a problem. Thatch harbors insects and is a breeding place for lawn disease, too. Lawn aeration removes thousands of plugs of soil from your lawn and deposits them above the thatch. As the plugs begin to “melt” back into the lawn, the soil mixes with the thatch and speeds up the natural process of decomposition. By practicing regular lawn care aeration, thatch is managed and seldom becomes a serious (and expensive) problem.
Everyone Loves a Free Meal
Free food always brings in a crowd. It’s true of your lawn too. The growth pockets that are created when lawn aeration cores are removed put food and water in easy reach of the turf roots. The root system of the lawn actually grows toward these pockets and becomes deeper and stronger. Better roots mean a thicker and healthier lawn.
"Softer" Soil
Heavy clay soils become very compacted over time. Clay soil particles are small and tightly packed with little space for water, air and root movement. We’ve all felt this kind of "hard" soil underfoot, and turf grass has a tough time growing deep roots when it has to fight so hard for room to grow. Core aeration services allow the soil to "relax" or expand which means roots can penetrate deeper and further. Over a period of time, this results in soil that is softer and more open. Lawn aeration/core cultivation is one of the best things you can do to improve and grow your lawn. Contact Commonwealth Landcare Inc. with questions about lawn aeration or any other best practices for growing grass in the central Virginia area.
Remember:
  • Core aeration helps keep thatch under control, which reduces the need for expensive renovation.
  • Growth zones capture air, water and fertilizer, putting “dinner” within easy reach of the turf roots.
  • Soil compaction forces lawns to thin. Lawn aeration helps open the soil for better growth.

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Home and garden event calendar for July 29


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Bulletin Board
Calendar of events relating to homes and gardens.
Butterflies LIVE!: Butterflies bring living color to the conservatory daily through Oct. 14 during garden hours at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, 1800 Lakeside Ave. Included in garden admission of $7-$11. (804) 262-9887.
Lewis Ginter Programs: Increase your gardening know-how with programs at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, 1800 Lakeside Ave.:
  • Thursday: Organic Fall Vegetable Gardening, 5-7 p.m., $20-$31.
  • Aug. 15: "Use What You Have: Vegetables" with David Pippin incorporating produce floral designs, 11:30-1:30 p.m., $40-$51.
Registration required for all classes. To register or for course information, visit www.lewisginter.org or call (804) 262-9887, ext. 322.
Williamsburg Garden Tours: Guided, themed tours in Colonial Williamsburg included with admission; some require reservations. (800) HISTORY (447-8679).
  • Thursdays through Aug. 30: "Meet the Gardener," garden Q&A with volunteers, 10:30 a.m. at Prentis Store.
  • Fridays through Aug. 31: "Gardens of Gentility," 9:30 a.m. visits to the Governor's Palace and gardens along the Palace Green.
  • Saturdays through Aug. 25: "Through the Garden Gate," focused on historic and archaeological evidence used to re-create Historic Area gardens, 9:30 a.m.
"The Art and Influence of Japan": In-depth tour focusing on decorative arts and home furnishings inspired by Japanese and other Asian cultures, noon Friday at Maymont Mansion, 1700 Hampton St. $7; reservation recommended. (804) 358-7166, ext. 329.
Heirloom Tomato Tour & Tasting: Tour the Chesterfield Historical Society/Chesterfield County Extension Heirloom Tomato Demonstration Garden and taste samples of the fruit, 8-10 a.m. Saturday at the garden in Rockwood Park's community garden plot No. 1 (use Courthouse Road entrance). (804) 768-7311.
Saturdays in the Garden: Monticello's garden programs take place at 9:30 a.m. (unless noted) at various locations on the estate, Albemarle County:
  • Saturday: Tomato Tasting, sample heirloom tomatoes (bring your favorites), at the Garden Center at the Thomas Jefferson Visitor Center.
  • Aug. 11: Summer Fruit Tasting, at the Garden Center.
Cost is $15 per session (unless noted) and requires registration. www.monticello.org or (434) 984-9880.
Pat Row

Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Protect Trees From Summer Storm Damage

Protect trees from summer storm damage


Two trees with broken trunks, with standing trees in the background. Many trees fell victim to the recent derecho winds.

BLACKSBURG, Va., July 17, 2012 – Recent storms wreaked havoc upon trees across a wide swath of Virginia and other eastern states. While there is little landowners can do to avoid damage from a 70 to 80 mph wind, thoughtful planting and routine maintenance can go a long way toward protecting your trees from the average storm, says Virginia Tech College of Natural Resources and Environment Associate Professor and Extension Specialist Eric Wiseman.
“Mindful planting of the right trees in the right places and correct routine pruning can help you avoid tree damage from summer storms,” says Wiseman, who specializes in urban forestry and arboriculture in the Department of Forest Resources and Environmental Conservation.
Property owners should be discriminating when planting or retaining trees on their property. Most oaks are “well-behaved,” Wiseman notes. They are slow-growing trees known for strong wood, with less tendency to develop co-dominant leaders, an unstable condition of multiple main trunks. Besides oaks, Wiseman recommends hickory, fruitless sweetgum, beech, and blackgum as storm-tolerant lawn trees.
He advises against landscape plantings of silver maples, willows, ashes, white pines, and loblolly pines, as well as the notoriously fracture-prone Bradford pear. These faster growing trees tend to be weak-wooded and decay-prone, he explains.
Even the right tree can be easily uprooted if not planted properly. Selecting a tree with a well-developed root system and planting it at the correct depth is crucial to the tree’s longevity.
“You get what you pay for,” he warns, “so buy your tree from a reputable nursery.”
Trees need routine maintenance, particularly during their “adolescent years,” Wiseman says. Periodic pruning improves a tree’s structure by removing dead and defective branches, such as multiple leaders or trunks and weak branch attachments with embedded bark. Both of these conditions make trees susceptible to storm damage.
Topping, or indiscriminate reduction of tree height, is not an appropriate pruning practice. In fact, topping will likely weaken the tree in the long run. When pruning alone cannot remedy a structural issue, a professional tree service can sometimes install cables or bracing to support weak branches.
Signs that a tree is in trouble include cracks, cavities, decay, dead limbs, and sometimes mushrooms at its base. Recent excavation beneath the tree damages its roots, which in turn weakens the tree, increasing its susceptibility to decay, pests, and wind damage.
Wiseman recommends calling in an arborist for evaluation and tasks related to tree health and safety. The person who cuts your grass and trims your shrubs may give tree advice, but may not have an arboriculture (tree care) background. An arborist can detect the signs and has tools to help with the detection of root problems.
“Some landscapers are also arborists, but most aren’t,” Wiseman says. “Virginia has no certification requirement for arborists, so look for someone certified by the International Society of Arborists. Tree service companies accredited by the Tree Care Industry Association are also well qualified.”
Even the best trees are put to test during high derecho winds like those experienced June 29. Under these conditions, it’s impossible to absolutely avoid tree problems.
“The only thing you can do to eliminate tree problems is to get rid of all trees, but that’s not a good idea,” Wiseman says. “Trees reduce cooling and heating costs in homes, mitigate air pollution, protect water quality, and have aesthetic value.”
The College of Natural Resources and Environment at Virginia Tech consistently ranks among the top three programs of its kind in the nation. Faculty members stress both the technical and human elements of natural resources and the environment, and instill in students a sense of stewardship, land-use ethics, and large-scale problem solving. As a land-grant university, Virginia Tech serves the Commonwealth of Virginia in teaching, research, and Virginia Cooperative Extension.

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Summer Lawn Management

Mike Goatley, Extension turf specialist, Virginia Tech

Why water the lawn?

Water composes from 75 percent to 85 percent of the weight of a healthy grass plant. It is essential for seed germination, tissue formation, plant cooling, food manufacture, and nutrient absorption and transport. A grass plant loses the most water under conditions of high light intensity, high temperature, low relative humidity, and windy conditions. Without adequate water, the grass plant can't cool itself and becomes susceptible to wilting, desiccation, and death.

Are some grasses more drought tolerant?

Yes, grasses differ in both their need for water and their drought tolerance. Also seedling or recently established lawns (less than 12 months old) have little drought tolerance. You must consider the proper planting time for the various grasses in order to successfully establish a lawn. Some mature grasses develop deep roots and require less water. However, the most drought-tolerant grasses may not be suitable for all regions of Virginia. Consult your local Extension agent for specific information for your area.
Tall fescue when properly managed develops a deep root system and can be very drought tolerant. However, this advantage is lost if grown on shallow or extremely compacted soils.
Kentucky bluegrass can survive extended drought periods by gradually slowing growth, turning straw colored and entering summer dormancy. Once water becomes available again, it can initiate new growth from the crown of each plant.
Perennial ryegrasses have little tolerance to dry conditions and usually do not persist well in non-irrigated areas.
Fine fescues such as creeping red, chewings fescue, and hard fescue tolerate dry periods quite well due to their low water requirements.
Warm-season grasses such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and centipedegrass actually prefer warm conditions and can tolerate most drought conditions due to their deep and extensive root systems.

How much water does my lawn need?

This varies somewhat depending on grass type. In general, applying one inch of water per week is the recommendation when there is insufficient rainfall during summer drought. An inch of water can be measured by marking the side of a tuna or pet food can placed in the lawn. Remember that if nature provides water by rainfall, irrigation may not be needed. Nothing is more wasteful (and sure to attract attention for all the wrong reasons) than seeing irrigation running in the rain! Pay attention to current weather conditions and forecasts in order to use water more responsibly.

What about too much or too little water?

Over-watered lawns frequently lead to excess blade growth, summer fungal diseases, and more frequent mowing. Excessive watering also wastes water and increases the risk of fertilizer and pesticide runoff from the lawn to paved surfaces. This could negatively impact local water quality.
Lawns that receive little to no water from irrigation or rainfall during summer months will go dormant. Grass blade coloring will lighten. Most lawns will recover when water returns. During a severe drought, cool season grasses (ryegrasses, fescues, or bluegrasses) may die and require reseeding in the fall. This may be acceptable to those looking to conserve water during summer months, or may be necessary because of water-use restrictions during a drought. Again, where warm-season grasses are adapted within the state, consider using them because they can better withstand most drought conditions.

How can I tell if my lawn needs water?

A "thirsty" lawn turns from the normal green color to a purple-bluish color. In these areas the grass blades will not spring back if you walk across the lawn and your footprints will be visible. This is the first sign of "wilt" and indicates a need for water.

pic1.jpg

Tips for better watering

  • Deep and infrequent watering maintains a healthy root system and reduces weed infestation (as opposed to light and frequent irrigation, which promotes shallow roots and germination of weed seeds).
  • Applying one inch of water is often difficult to achieve in a single watering given the slow infiltration rate on most Virginia soils. Therefore, smaller amounts of water applied every three to four days may be required to allow water to enter the soil without causing runoff.
  • Water is best applied early in the day (5:00 to 10:00 a.m.) when evaporation loss is lowest. Afternoon watering is acceptable but wind may affect uniformity. Night watering minimizes evaporation, but may increase fungal diseases. Consider that numerous automatic sprinklers all running during periods of high household use (early morning) may place extreme demands on a community's water system.
  • Water the lawn, not driveways, sidewalks, or roads, by adjusting sprinkler heads.
  • Mow your grass at the right height during the summer. Longer grass blades increase the depth of the root system, shade the soil, and help drought tolerance (see following table).
Mowing Heights in Inches for Grass to
Improve Drought Tolerance in Virginia
1 to 1.5"2 to 2.5"2.5 to 3"
bermudagrass
zoysiagrass
centipedegrasstall fescue
Kentucky bluegrass
perennial ryegrass
fineleaf fescues
St. Augustinegrass
  • If your current grass is not drought tolerant, consider replacing it with one that is.
  • Precondition your cool-season lawn for summer by applying fertilizer in the late summer or early fall, avoiding large spring applications of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. This favors root growth and better drought tolerance. Lush, over fertilized lawns require more water.
  • Remember that newly sodded or seeded lawns require more frequent watering (for the first three to four weeks) than do well-established lawns, those older than 12 months.
  • Keep your mower blade sharp.
  • Annual core aeration can loosen compacted soil and allow water to infiltrate deeper into the ground.

What about sprinklers?

If you want an in-ground irrigation system, a reputable irrigation consultant will help you design the appropriate system for your lawn and landscape, and will see that you choose the appropriate components to create an efficient and effective irrigation system. If you are selecting portable, above-ground sprinklers, look for sprinklers that keep water close to the ground rather than sending a fine mist or spray high into the air. This will help reduce evaporation as well as keep the water on the lawn.
Check for uniform water distribution and overlap with any irrigation system by placing five broad, wide-mouthed cans diagonal to the sprinkler at distances of approximately 20, 40, 60, 80, and 100 percent of the maximum throw of the sprinkler(s). Collect the output, note how long you ran the system, and the average depth of water collected in the cans. This test will do several things for you. First, it will help you diagnose and prevent either dry or saturated areas that can lead to an unhealthy turf. Second, it will allow you to determine irrigation application rates so that you will know how long you can (or want) to run your irrigation to deliver a desired amount of water to your lawn.
For instance, assume you have determined, (or your Extension agent has recommended) that it is necessary for your turf to receive one inch of water per week to perform its best during the hottest, driest months of the year. By using the can collection system described above, you have determined that you need to run your system 60 minutes to deliver one inch of water. However, you also notice that at about 30 minutes into the irrigation event, there is significant puddling on your lawn, telling you that your soil is not accepting the water as quickly as it is being applied.
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By knowing what your system is capable of delivering, and paying attention to how the soil accepts the applied water, you can develop a responsible irrigation program in which you run your sprinklers for no longer than 30 minutes per irrigation event in order to avoid puddling and the undesired loss of water due to surface drainage. This will provide a half inch of water and you can now schedule two irrigation events during the week in order to deliver the desired volume of water. Such a strategy maximizes the efficiency of water use and promotes a healthy turfgrass system at the same time.

Anything else I can do?

Remember that what we do to our lawns and landscapes affects local water quality and that of the Chesapeake Bay. Contact your local Virginia Cooperative Extension office and speak with an Extension agent or Master Gardener volunteer for more advice and information on upcoming lawn and landscape classes and seminars in your area.

Funding for this publication provided in part by the Virginia Water Quality Improvement Act.
Original authors: Marc Aveni, Extension agent, Prince William County; David Chalmers, Extension agronomist, Virginia Tech; and Richard Nunnally, Extension Agent, Chesterfield County

Rights


Virginia Cooperative Extension materials are available for public use, re-print, or citation without further permission, provided the use includes credit to the author and to Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, and Virginia State University.

Publisher

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Virginia State University, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. Alan L. Grant, Dean, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences; Edwin J. Jones, Director, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg; Jewel E. Hairston, Administrator,1890 Extension Program, Virginia State, Petersburg.

Date

May 1, 2009